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Before disassembling the washer to diagnose the problem, check to be sure there is some water in the tub. Open the filter cover and pull out the little drain hose. Un-cork the end and let the water run into an old drink bottle or a floor drain. Then unscrew the filter to be sure it isn 't stopped up. See PUMPS for more information about the pumps, including electrical specifications and test procedures. |
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The drain pump is on the left and the recirculating pump is on the right. (Some models do not have the recirculation pump.) |
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You can test the pumps without removing them. Unplug the pump connector (usually blue.) The wires will be BROWN, BLACK, and BLUE. See PUMPS for more information about the pumps, including electrical specifications and test procedures. |
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If the machine has been in service very long, there will be some rust and corrosion around the pump area, usually from detergent drawer spillage and the various chemicals used for doing laundry. To replace either pump, remove the two screws from the faceplate, press the tab behind the pump asembly, and push is backwards out of its slot. (These screws are not installed if the pump assembly sits on an anti-vibration plate. The base plate will come out with the pumps. You can tilt the assembly toward either side to replace the pump on that side.) |
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Using the schematic, you can locate the BROWN, BLACK, and BLUE wires at their connectors on the main board. It may be a little more difficult, but it will save disassembling the machine if the pumps are not at fault. |
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