Remove the freezer drawers.

Do NOT remove the center support bar. It contains refrigerant lines and should not be removed. The lines are easily damaged and removal of the bar serves no purpose. All service operations can be completed with the bar in place.

Remove three screws to remove the top drawer’s guide rail on the left side of the freezer. This will allow clearance for the back panel to be removed.

Unplug the electrical connector on the rail so it doesn’t hang by the wires.

Pry the temperature sensor and cover off using a flat-tipped screwdriver.

Then, using the opening for the sensor, pry the back cover away from the back of the freezer. Be careful to avoid wires and refrigerant lines behind the back cover.

Pull the top right corner outward, and the cover should separate from the freezer back as it is pulled. By the time you are to this point, the plastic should have warmed up to room remperature and should not be as brittle from the cold. Still, be gentle and use caution.

Disconnect the icemaker fan connector and the freezer fan connector. Notice that the black foam gasket is very delicate and was damaged even on the first removal. (See the residue on the photo.) If you are going to remove the freezer back panel, order a replacement gasket. Be certain to remove all the gasket residue before installing the new gasket. If this gasket is damaged and the air flow is interrupted, the icemaker compartment may not receive sufficient cold air to make ice or to keep it frozen.

Unplug the thermistor (connector on the left, blue wires.) You can check the thermistor for resistance, open, or short at this point. The remaining connectors (on the right) are for the defrost heater and need not be disconnected unless you are servicing the heater.

The freezer back can be lifted out of the freezer now. By the time you are to this point, the plastic should have warmed up to room remperature and should not be as brittle from the cold. Still, be gentle and use caution. The evaporator is exposed and can be serviced here.

Remove the connector and measure the resistance of the defrost sensor. It should be approximately 12 ohms.

Remove the connector and measure the resistance of the defrost heater element.

It should be approximately 38 ohms ± 4 ohms (10%.)

Remove the connector and measure the resistance of the thermal fuse. It should show continuity unless it is blown, in which case it must be replaced.

With the freezer back panel removed, the opening for the icemaker fan is visible.

The duct allows the icemaker fan to circulate cold air (0°F / -18° C) through the icemaker compartment in the refrigerator door. If the temperature is higher than this, the icemaker may not work. Check the sensor.

Notice that the black foam gasket is very delicate and was damaged even on the first removal. (See the residue on the photo above.) If you are going to remove the freezer back panel, order a replacement gasket. Be certain to remove all the gasket residue before installing the new gasket. If this gasket is damaged and the air flow is interrupted, the icemaker compartment may not receive sufficient cold air to make ice and / or keep it frozen.

The icemaker fan and the freezer fan can be removed and replaced independently of each other by removing the freezer back panel, as described above.

Notice the icemaker fan has a drain vent at the bottom. This allows any condensation to drip into the evaporator drip tray along with any water generated during the defrost cycle.